For the April Chronogram, I wrote a piece about making one’s own maple syrup and the many other wonderful things that can be done with maple sap.
Year: 2013
In the current issue of Edible Hudson Valley I wrote a piece about Zak Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde’s Fish & Game, their new restaurant set to open next month in Hudson, NY. I spent three days with them over the course of three weeks, shooting a metric shitload of photographs and getting to know them and their crew pretty well in the process as they developed recipes and techniques for all the great ingredients…
Even though there’s some snow on the ground, it’s rapidly melting as the March sun beats down upon it with increasing vigor. I was going to shoot a bunch of pictures of all the green goodness that’s popping up all over, but those will have to wait for a bit. Meantime, though, a post about my favorite of all the wild spring edibles.
Corn, beans, and squash are the trinity of native American staple crops. The fact that they can be planted all together—beans climbing corn, squash crowding out weeds on the ground—only adds to their iconic appeal. This meal took shape around the happy presence of all three in the pantry, all in different states, and the result was quite satisfying.
I’ve got a post brewing about early green things, but since it snowed that’s going to have to wait a bit. As winter begins to loosen its grip, there are all sorts of exciting developments to celebrate, most of them involving the garden, but this is also a time of year when fruit is revealed to be the great locavoracious challenge in this climate.
Paneer is one of the easiest cheeses to make at home, and it’s superbly rewarding because A) there’s almost no waiting and B) if you live, say, in an area that has no good South Asian restaurants, you can make yourself a steaming bowl of saag paneer whenever the urge strikes. And you can make a lot of it, because as we all know Indian food is even better the next morning for breakfast.
This came together nicely, and fairly quickly, and the result was as good to eat as it was healthy. Not the worst combination in the world.
These are the scallops I mentioned earlier, and there are a couple of non-scallop things worth mentioning about the dish.
For the March Chronogram, I went to eat at the brand new Bocuse restaurant at the Culinary Institute.
Espelette peppers, named for the town in Basque France that made them famous, are a unique food. Dried and ground, they have a particular aromatic quality: earthy and yet bright at the same time, with a fairly gentle but insistent heat that represents (in general, based on my own anecdotal experience) the upper limit of most French palates’ tolerance for spiciness. The great hams of Bayonne are cured with copious pepper, and it gives them a gorgeous flavor and tint. It’s not really a cooking spice, but rather a finishing one, especially given how much money a small jar commands. A pinch sprinkled on top of fish, chicken, or potatoes (or a hundred other things) adds an irresistible trebly zing and a not insignificant coloristic bump.