Home-cured duck prosciutto, red bartlett pear, maple-balsamic glaze Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru brut rosé Leek, gruyère, and pine nut tart Celery root-leek-potato soup 2001 Guigal Hermitage blanc Winter salad of mâche, claytonia, minutina Walnut-Sherry vinaigrette Kimchi juice-marinated diver scallop with braised pan di zucchero Quail egg, guanciale, kimchi, pan sauce 2001 Lucien Albrecht Gewurtztraminer Cuvée Marie Ham “ravioli” with squash-apple-walnut filling Clear squash consommé, togarashi Beef marrow bone Buckwheat “risotto”, beef-saffron reduction 1983 Joseph Drouhin Bonnes-Mares…
Year: 2007
I think turkey is overrated. We can get good heirloom varieties up here, but lacking the means to deep-fry one or the patience to smoke one out in the cold and rain I’m opting out. Even smoked or fried it’s still pretty bland, and so big that you have to eat it for days after. To me, the holiday is about family, eating, and gratitude with a strong focus on seasonal ingredients, not about eating…
I got a couple of things done today, chief among which the ham ravioli- smoked ham glued together with activa and with a filling of acorn squash, apple, pine nuts, onion, ginger, spices, and an egg yolk. There were a few left, and some of the buckwheat mixture, which, like risotto, made great supplì with a bit of aged gruyère and an egg-cornmeal coating. So for an appetizer, to christen the new small plates (it’s…
For some reason, this came together perfectly- flavors, textures, and portion sizes were all just right. Crosscut lamb shanks braised with mirepoix and a bit of lemon and wine until they were nice and tender. Parsnip roasted with whole garlic, rosemary, oil, and coriander seeds until crispy/creamy (and so sweet after some frost.) Buckwheat “risotto” simmered with lemon, savory, marjoram, parsley and scallion. I tossed a winter salad of mâche, spinach, and some of the…
In a combined effort to make room in the fridge and also make us something healthy, I wrangled diverse leftovers into a decent egg drop soup for lunch. Scallops, tofu, chicken broth, liquid from half a can of tomatoes, garlic, ginger, scallions and two beaten eggs added up to something that did not taste at all like leftovers. I sprinkled some of the kabocha seed-togarashi gomasio I made yesterday for Thanksgiving on top to finish,…
One of the problems with Thanksgiving is that it’s easy to eat badly for days beforehand since all the time and effort in the kitchen are in the service of delayed gratification. So this evening, after much toil on prep, I whipped up a quick roux-thickened, pancetta enriched milk and tomato sauce with some minced dried porcini, dried tomatoes, garlic and herbs and tossed penne in it, followed by a bag of our frozen peas.…
Oxtail stew. At Chris & Sirkka’s house, with such a rich variety of roots and leaves from their garden that I won’t bother to list it, all pressure cooked with wine for 45 minutes and served over polenta with fresh raw milk stirred in at the end (yes, from the same cow we get ours from.) We drank a 2003 Jaboulet Vaqueyras and a 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo by La Spinetta. Life is good, even in…
A trip to the market for Thanksgiving-related items led to scallops, and a cauliflower, which is one of the first vegetables I’ve bought since May. The rainy day just seemed to want roasted cauliflower, and there’s something about the sweetness of scallops that seemed like a good fit. So I marinated the scallops in kimchi juice to make a sort of ceviche, but not really long enough to “cook” them (though I did try one,…
This was originally going to be my birthday dinner, but I postponed it until Christine was back: a hanger steak (NOT a hangar steak, unless you cook airline food) cooked sous-vide at 135˚ for 75 minutes and got a quick sear in the iron pan to brown the outside. Polenta, endive-umeboshi mash, and a reduction sauce of fresh raw cream from Pepper (pop locavore quiz: do you know the name of the cow(s) you get…
But not what you’re thinking; Christine got back yesterday with birthday presents, (among which, some beautiful plates) Turkish delight with pistachios, and a camera stuffed full of pictures of boring things like Hagia Sophia and all the Greek ruins along the Aegean coast- which I already visited and dutifully drew like 16 years ago. But I did find one pertinent picture. Turkish food, like Greek (but don’t let either hear you say it) is very…