Saved By The Quail

In the summer, I always just walk outside and let the garden dictate what dinner will be. I love the constant dialogue with the plants, and the tension between my desire to efficiently dispatch them all at ideal times and the realities of their own schedules. As a result, I often try to make good use of the not-yet-ready in the form of sprouts and baby greens, combined with a few thinks at their perfect peak, and something else that’s past its prime. These days? I just open the freezer. Interesting it ain’t, but easy it assuredly is. And on nights such as last, when I’m not feeling super-inspired, a package of four semi-boneless quail can make the difference between a pasta phone-in and a real meal.

Lack of garden notwithstanding, I love winter vegetables; lately leeks, fennel, celery and a variety of roots have been bringing me much pleasure in a variety of forms from crunchy raw salads to superlative soups. This time around, inspired by the guanciale in the meat drawer, I decided to combine them all in a braise of sorts. I got the guanciale excited in a hot pan, then added the fennel, leeks, and celery to soften and color a bit, then added a big double handful of shredded kale and tossed it all together, adding garlic, sake, and a bit of water, then covering the pan and moving it to the low burner.

Up front, I had a couple sweet potatoes cut up and steaming, and the pot with the oil from frying the lamb chops on Saturday heating up. Next to the stove, I had seasoned the quail and then dredged them in some medium-coarse cornmeal. Once the oil was hot, I dropped them in one by one and cooked them to about medium. Quail should always be a little pink in the middle or they dry out and lose their wonderful succulence. I crisped up a bit more guanciale and maitake mushrooms in a separate pan and hit them with a bit of soy sauce and vinegar when they were done.

And that was it, although I did quarter the crispy quail for a nicer presentation. Spuds, greens, birds, mushrooms. If I’d been a little more motivated, some strategically deployed gravy would have been an excellent addition, but by using their steaming water to thin the sweet potatoes I had gotten them to a puddingy consistency that was well-suited to swabbing with quartered quail. To drink, a bottle of my current favorite cheap red: the 2006 Plan Pegau. For $13.50 with the case discount, it’s hard to beat this fluent synthesis of fruit and earth that the Southern Rhône does so well.

4 comments to Saved By The Quail

  • You always seem to have quail on hand. How is that?

  • I enjoyed what you wrote about the “tension between my desire to efficiently dispatch them all at ideal times and the realities of their own schedules. ” Very well put. And then, at least in our neck of the woods, is this time of year when I have fresh potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash and then my frozen and canned things as well as fresh greens from the unheated greenhouse. It’s a marvelous “problem!”

  • Janet

    Quail is on the menu for Valentine Days. I’ve got them in the freezer right now. I haven’t decided if I’m going to stuff & roast them or do the quail two ways (braise the legs & saute the breasts). Oh, decisions, decisions…

  • Peter

    Julia: I know a guy.

    Yolanda: I have frozen and canned, but no greenhouse. Maybe next year.

    Janet: Either way you’ll be happy. I stuffed some recently with a chestnut-mushroom mixture and it was excellent.

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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