We were in the city for the weekend (eating a variety of Asian takeout, plus a good brunch at my favorite Williamsburg Italian place) so tonight’s dinner was a study in the intersection between fast and delicious, using available staples. Eggs can often mean the difference between good and great, so since we had some I made pasta (no flavors, just basic) and pulled a jar of our strained yellow cherry tomato purée from the pantry. The pasta got sauced with our gorgeous, sweet, velvety tomatoes plus a glug of cream to accentuate both their texture and sweetness and a garnish of garlic chives from the lawn. On the side, our new house special of Bolting Brassica Medley™ with garlic and cider vinegar. The greens were super rich and satisfying, and the sauce essentially disappeared into the pasta. I chose the yellow purée because it was almost the same color as the pasta, and with a little cream it became the sauce that wasn’t; the effect was more like a self-lubricating fettucine with astonishingly deep, sweet flavor.
Another reason I chose the yellow tomatoes was the wine: while in Brooklyn I grabbed the 2005 Bret Brothers Pouilly Fuissé “Le Clos Reyssié” which the first of Mary’s offerings we’ve opened; it bodes very, very well for all the other wine I’ve bought from her. While your average California chardonnay is much like a grilled pineapple upside-down cake in the face as thrown by a fruit-hatted clown in Carmen Miranda drag, this wine (which is an excellent candidate for decanting- the last glass was by far the best) is more like a therapeutic soak in a mineral spring with a “Manon des Sources” era Emmanuele Béart who accidentally spills her daiquiri on you while rubbing your back. And it was note perfect with the pasta.