The new issue of Edible Hudson Valley is out, and it includes a piece I wrote and photographed about Coppersea distillery. This one was quite a while in the making; after my first visit, we decided to push the piece because of all the local press that attended their debut. Then, I insisted that we wait longer still so that their new 75-acre farm would be available for gratuitous sunset pictures like the one above. As a result, I ended up stopping by four or five times over the course of two years and developing a pretty good sense of the people and the product line, as well as the ways in which they all have evolved since the business began.
Lack of sunset shots notwithstanding, this issue was my first cover photo and I’m grateful to Eric for choosing the picture and letting me do my thing. Enjoy.
The Fish & Game fall newsletter is out today. I spent a pretty rewarding October on several short trips to gather images and information for this, and by extension for the book: a short flight up the river to Hudson at between 500 and 1500 feet for some foliage shots, an overnight jaunt to Ithaca for the grain piece, and a lovely three days in Portland, Maine meeting and photographing some shellfish farmers and the wholesaler who provides the restaurant with such sterling seafood.
The bulk of the photography for the book is finished, which is a relief because it’s challenging to do two things at once. Who knows, I may even return to photographing my own dinner from time to time. Stranger things have surely happened. The book should be out next fall, in plenty of time for holiday gift-giving.
One of these days I’ll tell you about my new garden, though it’s hard to get excited about it when it’s largely dormant. Stay tuned.
Just in time for fall, a look back at the summer’s activities at everyone’s favorite scrappy underdog restaurant.
There may be a new post in the offing about my new garden, but first I have to deal with updating the blog to the newest version of WordPress or some shit so the spam tsunami can be headed off well upstream of my spot. Or something. I don’t have time for this shit.
At long last, the piece about Dancing Ewe Farm that I wrote and shot for Edible Manhattan is out in the new issue. Jody and Luisa do terrific work, and couldn’t be nicer; their spot is well worth a visit if you’re in the area. If you’re not, you could do far worse than to order some food from them.
Spring, the second Fish & Game newsletter, is out today. Check it out and let me know what you think. (Comments now close after 14 days because the spam got completely out of control.)
The container of bones, a more or less permanent denizen of the fridge, was particularly full recently; I had grilled a couple of chickens on a lovely afternoon when some friends came over and there were also two beef bones from a decadent ribeye dinner a few evenings prior. There aren’t a lot of bones that make better stock than grilled chicken, and the addition of some deep beefiness to that flavor was too tempting to resist. I needed to make ramen.
Keep reading Keep On Ramen In The Free World…
While the garden is just beginning—tiny sprouts popping up over the last couple of days in the early beds—the lawn is nobly stepping up to shoulder the verdant burden of providing actual green things with which to adorn our dinner these days. The chervil deserves mention, since it always bounces back from winter faster than anything else, and provides great garnishes right out of the gate, but the wild garlic takes the prize for the most useful wild plant in both early spring and late fall (and winter, really, as long as there’s not so much snow that it can’t be seen).
Keep reading Shoulder Season…
That’s pork belly braised in the last of the maple sap with pho spices, then removed and the liquid strained and reduced to somewhere in the happy medium between stock and syrup. Underneath, freshly dug parsnips—early spring’s great treat, and maple’s perfect partner—steamed with yogurt whey and then puréed in it underneath, and alongside kale sautéed with some of last summer’s mirepoix from the freezer and a vibrant pesto of escarole and sunflower seeds. Chervil, the earliest (and latest; it’s indestructible by frost) of the domesticated herbs, made a fitting garnish. I reduced the rest of the liquid down to a thick caramel for use in various future nefariousness. This was a good dinner: contemplative and subtle, but also revelatory. This time of year, when fresh food becomes available again, is conducive to flavor experiences more profound than any other time.
Yesterday was glorious, and I made all sorts of spring cleaning-y progress in the garden, including spreading some leftover compost on a few beds and doing some early planting. This year is a late one—some beds still have frozen soil—but for the most part it’s all workable and good to go. Last year’s parsnips are as sweet as bananas, especially with some of the homemade maple syrup; the last batch went a bit long on the stove and became a surpassingly splendid burnt caramel with many possible applications. I’ll have a post or two elaborating on that combination at some point soon.
Keep reading Mmmmmm… Mediciney…
Just in time for spring, the Fish & Game winter newsletter is finally out. We’re pretty happy with it; take a look and let me know what you all think.