Sumer Is A Guin Out

Just in time for fall, a look back at the summer’s activities at everyone’s favorite scrappy underdog restaurant.

There may be a new post in the offing about my new garden, but first I have to deal with updating the blog to the newest version of WordPress or some shit so the spam tsunami can be headed off well upstream of my spot. Or something. I don’t have time for this shit.

Ecco, Formaggio

At long last, the piece about Dancing Ewe Farm that I wrote and shot for Edible Manhattan is out in the new issue. Jody and Luisa do terrific work, and couldn’t be nicer; their spot is well worth a visit if you’re in the area. If you’re not, you could do far worse than to order some food from them.

Vernal Journal

Spring, the second Fish & Game newsletter, is out today. Check it out and let me know what you think. (Comments now close after 14 days because the spam got completely out of control.)

Keep On Ramen In The Free World

The container of bones, a more or less permanent denizen of the fridge, was particularly full recently; I had grilled a couple of chickens on a lovely afternoon when some friends came over and there were also two beef bones from a decadent ribeye dinner a few evenings prior. There aren’t a lot of bones that make better stock than grilled chicken, and the addition of some deep beefiness to that flavor was too tempting to resist. I needed to make ramen.

Keep reading Keep On Ramen In The Free World…

Shoulder Season

While the garden is just beginning—tiny sprouts popping up over the last couple of days in the early beds—the lawn is nobly stepping up to shoulder the verdant burden of providing actual green things with which to adorn our dinner these days. The chervil deserves mention, since it always bounces back from winter faster than anything else, and provides great garnishes right out of the gate, but the wild garlic takes the prize for the most useful wild plant in both early spring and late fall (and winter, really, as long as there’s not so much snow that it can’t be seen).

Keep reading Shoulder Season…

Zen Garden

That’s pork belly braised in the last of the maple sap with pho spices, then removed and the liquid strained and reduced to somewhere in the happy medium between stock and syrup. Underneath, freshly dug parsnips—early spring’s great treat, and maple’s perfect partner—steamed with yogurt whey and then puréed in it underneath, and alongside kale sautéed with some of last summer’s mirepoix from the freezer and a vibrant pesto of escarole and sunflower seeds. Chervil, the earliest (and latest; it’s indestructible by frost) of the domesticated herbs, made a fitting garnish. I reduced the rest of the liquid down to a thick caramel for use in various future nefariousness. This was a good dinner: contemplative and subtle, but also revelatory. This time of year, when fresh food becomes available again, is conducive to flavor experiences more profound than any other time.

Mmmmmm… Mediciney

Yesterday was glorious, and I made all sorts of spring cleaning-y progress in the garden, including spreading some leftover compost on a few beds and doing some early planting. This year is a late one—some beds still have frozen soil—but for the most part it’s all workable and good to go. Last year’s parsnips are as sweet as bananas, especially with some of the homemade maple syrup; the last batch went a bit long on the stove and became a surpassingly splendid burnt caramel with many possible applications. I’ll have a post or two elaborating on that combination at some point soon.

Keep reading Mmmmmm… Mediciney…

Invernal Journal

Just in time for spring, the Fish & Game winter newsletter is finally out. We’re pretty happy with it; take a look and let me know what you all think.

Confit Don’t Fail Me Now

This bowl is the third in the new set; it’s an almost disaster that I salvaged into a candy dish sort of thing with a flat bottom. My limited skill on the wheel is greatly enhanced by my post-wheel surgical chops and willingness both to coax things back from the brink and celebrate their lopsided uniqueness. I suspect that after I throw a hundred more I will be a lot less precious about the process. In any case, this duck confit made a worthy passenger for the bowl’s maiden voyage.

Keep reading Confit Don’t Fail Me Now…

Fifty Shades Of Whey

When your kid loves yogurt, making it at home makes a lot of sense. When your kid loves Greek yogurt, straining it makes for a more or less inexhaustible supply of tangy whey; the yield is roughly 50/50 so our weekly gallon of yogurt makes a half of each. There’s always some stock around too, either in fridge or freezer, so between that and the whey I never want for rich liquids with or in which to cook dinner.

Keep reading Fifty Shades Of Whey…

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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