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The June Chronogram has emerged, and within its glossy confines lurks my review of Fish & Game in Hudson, which I also wrote about for Edible Hudson Valley, which piece then appeared in an updated version in the current Edible Manhattan. Check it out, both in print and in person.
Photo by . . . → Read More: Seconds   Olive oil cake, candies carrots, fresh cheese, and sunflower sprouts. The new Edible Manhattan is out, and in it is my reworked profile of Fish & Game in Hudson (where I’ll be dining this very evening, in fact) updated for spring and with some pictures of plated food. This is my first of what I hope will be many articles for them. If you live in the borough, pick up a copy since they only used one picture on their website. This one was almost the cover (thanks to everyone who voted in the comments on their blog) and there’s another one I’m partial to after the jump. Keep reading If I Can Make It There, I’ll Make It Anywhere…
I’ve written before about leeks in vinaigrette being one of my all-time favorite appetizers. Leeks have a particularly savory completeness to their flavor, an almost meaty umami element that’s extremely compelling and addictive. They take well to all forms of cooking, and their silky texture when perfectly done—slick layers sliding apart under the fork—is hard to beat for sensual pleasure in the vegetable kingdom. Keep reading Know’st Thou Fluellen?… In the current issue of Edible Hudson Valley I wrote a piece about Zak Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde’s Fish & Game, their new restaurant set to open next month in Hudson, NY. I spent three days with them over the course of three weeks, shooting a metric shitload of photographs and getting to know them and their crew pretty well in the process as they developed recipes and techniques for all the great ingredients that will be passing through their kitchen every day. All indications are that right out of the gate this will be one of the best restaurants in the Hudson . . . → Read More: Behind The Scenes
I was sick for Christmas; beginning the day before I was laid up and useless in bed, unable to festivate or jollify or even merrytize. I did, however, watch an ungodly amount of Doctor Who and produce a near-equal amount of phlegm—at the same time, mind you, which made me feel like one of the slimy, rubbery alien villains that make the show so kitschtastic. While I was busy being a Slime Lord, all the preparations and cooking fell to my better half, who really distinguished herself, especially with the cooking, since that’s not something she is called upon to do very often. Keep reading It’s A Wonderful Wife… For the October issue of Chronogram, I profiled Warren Norstein of Big W’s barbecue on Route 22 in Wingdale, NY. His is a fascinating story; he essentially spent twenty years working backwards from the best kitchen in the country to a roadside BBQ joint. This unique career path is the result of a series of decisions, each of which prioritized his family and sanity over prestige and success. As an added bonus, here’s a clip I found that complements the article . . . → Read More: Go Heavy And Go Home
Recently we went to visit some old friends at their weekend house down in Sullivan county. We hadn’t seen them in ages, so it was good to catch up. Keep reading Postcards From The Veg… I dislike Tim Burton’s movies pretty intensely; his cheesy goth aesthetic reminds me too much of people I went to college with and his wanton mutilation of classic children’s stories is arrogant and disrespectful to artists much greater than he. (The suckiness of the rewrites doesn’t help). Nonetheless, this cake is pretty cool. If more cakes were scary and too awesome to eat, the Internet would be a . . . → Read More: Cake Effects For the June issue of Chronogram, I dutifully slogged both hither and yon surveying many of the region’s food trucks. Many of them are newly on the scene, and many of them make excellent and affordable fare. It’s an appealing career for people who like to cook but aren’t interested in the more complex challenges of a restaurant, and the personalities involved are diverse and interesting. Photo by . . . → Read More: No Truck With Truculence  This man wants you to taste his sausage. La foire nationale à la brocante et aux jambons (the antiques and ham market) takes place every spring and fall out in the Parisian suburb of Chatou. It began in the middle ages, when during holy week vendors would gather to sell their hams right in front of Notre Dame. Over the ensuing centuries, the market was subsequently moved to various other spots in the city. Over time, other flea market-type vendors joined the market, and eventually, in 1970, it ended up in Chatou, right under the RER station (which makes getting there from Paris extremely easy). Keep reading Friday, Part 2: The Food… |
I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.   |
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