Fresh morels, sautéd in butter with wild garlic, white wine, heavy cream, and herbes de Provence, make excellent crostini on homemade sourdough.
Oh, and I just saw that Edible Hudson Valley has the last issue online. You can read my piece about Tuthilltown’s fire and their new gin, and also my article about homemade vinegar. I also took the photos for . . . → Read More: PSA
For the April Chronogram, I wrote a piece about making one’s own maple syrup and the many other wonderful things that can be done with maple sap.
Photo by . . . → Read More: More Sugar!
In the current issue of Edible Hudson Valley I wrote a piece about Zak Pelaccio and Jori Jayne Emde’s Fish & Game, their new restaurant set to open next month in Hudson, NY. I spent three days with them over the course of three weeks, shooting a metric shitload of photographs and getting to know them and their crew pretty well in the process as they developed recipes and techniques for all the great ingredients that will be passing through their kitchen every day. All indications are that right out of the gate this will be one of the best restaurants in the Hudson . . . → Read More: Behind The Scenes
For the March Chronogram, I went to eat at the brand new Bocuse restaurant at the Culinary Institute.
Photo by . . . → Read More: Standing Athwart History, Yelling “Bon Appétit!”
For the first Chronogram of 2013—which marks four years since I began writing for them, which is kind of terrifying—I profile Glynwood, a non-profit doing innovative and influential work helping sustainable agriculture become a central part of the Hudson Valley’s economy and identity.
I also forgot to mention that I have two articles, with photos, in the current issue of Edible Hudson Valley: one on homemade vinegar and the other on Tuthilltown’s new gin as well as other products they’re developing in the aftermath of the explosion and fire that destroyed their distillery. And you can read Meredith Bethune’s article about homemade charcuterie, featuring many pithy quotes from yours truly, in the current issue of Urban Farm magazine. (Neither Edible nor UF have the current issue online, unlike the digitally savvy Chronogram, which has a sparkly new site).
Keep reading American Idyll…
For January’s Chronogram, I visited the Hudson Valley Seed Library to talk about their rapid growth and plans for the coming year. If you live in the area, they offer a full range of seeds that are bred and selected to perform well in this climate. Even if you don’t, theirs is an important story if you prefer to have your food dollars support local small businesses rather than huge multinational corporations.
Photo by . . . → Read More: Seminal Effort
The November Chronogram is out, and within its august pages I present a primer on the new hard ciders that are proliferating throughout the region. Those of you who are especially attentive might remember that I wrote a piece about the Apple Exchange for Edible Hudson Valley last spring; the local producers learned a great deal from their French colleagues both here and in Normandy, and they are dedicated to returning cider to its original status as America’s first . . . → Read More: There’s An Apple For That
For the October issue of Chronogram, I profiled Warren Norstein of Big W’s barbecue on Route 22 in Wingdale, NY. His is a fascinating story; he essentially spent twenty years working backwards from the best kitchen in the country to a roadside BBQ joint. This unique career path is the result of a series of decisions, each of which prioritized his family and sanity over prestige and success.
As an added bonus, here’s a clip I found that complements the article . . . → Read More: Go Heavy And Go Home
This is a few days late, but I was in Vermont, blissfully removed from all things digital. For the September Chronogram I talked to Sandor Katz about his excellent new tome The Art of Fermentation. Whether you’re a curious would-be amateur or a seasoned fermenter, the book is a trove of practical knowledge.
Photo by . . . → Read More: Back To School
Photo by Roy Gumpel
For this month’s Chronogram I profiled the Crimson Sparrow, a new restaurant in Hudson co-owned by two alumni of WD-50, among other places. It’s well worth a visit if you’re in the area.
In other news, I was going to write about the smoked chickens, but the real highlight of last night was the fact that this brilliant woman gave me a haircut after dinner:
The Jewfro is no more. It’s the first time in about two years that someone else has cut my hair, and I can’t imagine a . . . → Read More: Ambrosia, Parsley