Who Loved You With His Frozen Love

This is not normally how I eat, but man is it enjoyable every now and then to tuck into an immaculately cooked hunk of grass-fed sirloin. A nearby market has begun carrying beef from a farm across the river, about 20 miles away, which is actually run by a vegetarian who cares so deeply for animals that she raises ones that carnivores can eat in good conscience. With the family out for the evening, I indulged.

I have written before about cooking beef and lamb straight out of the freezer; especially with thinner cuts, it’s the only way to get a proper sear on the outside without cooking the inside to a despondent grey. All the recipes that tell you to bring your meat up to room temperature before cooking it are frankly wrong. This piece was thick enough (an inch and a half ) that fridge-cold was sufficient for me to put a righteous, buttery crust on both sides, but for steaks or chops an inch or less in thickness frozen is best. After a ten minute rest, it was perfect outside and in. I made a quick pan sauce with capers, herbes de Provence (duh), mustard, and a bit of kimchi brine, and put a big mound of kimchi on one side of the plate and a smaller spoonful of good mustard on the other.

What a satisfying plate of food. The only thing that could have improved the meal was a bottle of good Burgundy, but since I was getting over the cold I took it easy and had one IPA instead.

Seriously, though: use this technique. You can be as aggressive as you want in the pan or on the grill without worrying that you have ruined a beautiful piece of meat. Especially when it’s pastured—which, let’s face it, is the only meat you eat, right?—and has less intramuscular fat than factory-farmed animals. The only other way to get the inside this pink and the outside so dark is to cook it sous vide, then chill it, and then fry it. And that’s more work and gadgetry than most people can manage. I’m going to keep bringing this up until everyone is converted. Cook frozen steaks.

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Yours Truly

I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

Rage Against The Vitrine

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A Winner Is Me!



I’ve been Punk’d