See How They Break Both Ways?

What to do when you’re conflicted between broiling and tartare: both. Especially in the case of some gorgeous salmon. I minced it and mixed in sesame oil, yuzu juice, scallions, soy sauce, and pink pepper, then cooked it inside a ring mold on pretty high heat to get a good sear on one side. I made crispy crackers with the skin, and served them all on brown rice and diced garden roots (carrot, rutabaga, daikon) simmered in goose stock and then tossed with miso at the end to thicken.

A delightful continuum from crunchy, hot salmonburger to cool, velvety tartare. I deglazed the pan with some white wine and dribbled it around for a little extra something. Next time it might be fun to make little meatballs with this, browning the outside and leaving the inside raw, and serving them in miso gravy for like a Swedish/Japanese kind of thing.

5 comments to See How They Break Both Ways?

  • Zoomie

    The expression "Play with your food" describes your approach to dinner perfectly.

  • The Spiteful Chef

    They did something similar on Top Chef Vegas. It's kind of a neat idea. Hers wasn't minced, though, but just a pave of salmon seared on one side and raw on the other. Good lookin mess of food.

    And, I swear to God, my captcha is "Dicitch," and since I know you won't believe me, I'm going to take a picture of it and send it to you on facebook. Wait, I can't find my phone…I wonder how to do a screen shot…GOT IT!

  • cook eat FRET

    not that same old plate of salmon again. i mean, really…

  • We Are Never Full

    have you ever eaten kitfo? it reminds me a bit of this kinda tartare kinda cooked thing. they warm the tartare up a bit an then serve it so it's mostly raw… great texture. this sounds DELISH. why do i want to laugh when i read your writing "salmonburger"?

  • peter

    Zoomie: You can't see in the picture, but there's a little smiley face on top.

    Kristie: Still waiting, you liar.

    Claudia: I know. I know.

    Amy: Not quite as funny as "mooseburger."

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I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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