A Man’s Got To Have A Bowl Of Soup

This soup bears a resemblance to the soup I linked to in yesterday’s post- it’s wontons, broth, and some vegetables. But the flavors were completely different. To start with, the broth was made from a smoked chicken carcass I saved from my birthday party on Sunday, just simmered with a little carrot, onion, and celery for about two hours. The wontons (round wrappers this time) were filled with ground local veal seasoned with grated ginger and garlic, yuzu juice, shichimi, and pepper. After straining the stock, I simmered slices of lotus root in it while I cooked the dumplings in batches, and then ladled it all together with a chiffonade of radish leaves (dakon, red, and black) beet greens and arugula with a big heap of kimchi and some jalapeños to finish.

As Omar might say, “This here be a muhfuckin’ bowla SOUP, feelme?” The yuzu in the meat and the tart kimchi juice did a thing, as did the slippery pasta and the crunchy lotus root, and the heat from kimchi and peppers, all enveloped in the smoky seduction of the stock. I sorely wanted more when it was all gone.

4 comments to A Man’s Got To Have A Bowl Of Soup

  • The Spiteful Chef

    Lotus root is just so darned pretty, I don't know if I could bear to eat it. And when I finally found yuzu, I ended up being not that big a fan of it. Is that weird? Maybe I haven't tried it on the right things, but it seems that even a teensy little dram of the stuff bitch-slaps all the other ingredients into submission. I don't like that quality, unless it's in bacon.

  • peter

    Well, it's all about harmonizing with the other ingredients.

  • We Are Never Full

    wow – that looks amazing. i'm feeling like an illness is coming and that would make me better. the lotus root looks really nice in there. mmmmmm.

  • peter

    Amy: It's serious medicine, especially with lots of hot sauce.

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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