The Ice Storm

I have to say at the outset that we are lucky; despite our recent travails with the heat (and the panic, the vomit) we got off easy with this last storm. While people all over the Northeast have no power, I’m basking in the glow of the internets. We ended up just South of the freeze for most of it, and the ice turned to plain old rain, though in Biblical quantity.

Last night, because we needed it, I made another veal-dashi lasagna; it’a keeper, and I may just put one of those recipe things up here sometime soon, on account of how good it is. But, as they say, don’t wait under water.

Tonight, pursuant to a trip to our fabulous butcher (whence the veal) I took a (free) faux hanger steak- I asked him for a hanger (onglet) but he suggested this instead. It’s the flap of the sirloin, instead of being from the belly like a hanger. That’s hangER, by the way, since we aren’t talking about airplane food (remember that? What will bad comedians talk about now?) This turned out meltingly tender after a light rub and vacuum-seal with some salt and spices and a dip in the water bath at 52˚ C for about an hour. To finish, I seared it in a little duck fat and then let it rest while I dealt with the other components.

Which included some leftover roasted cauliflower simmered in a little miso soup from breakfast, then stick-blended with yogurt and a little beef demi-glace into a thick purée, and rounds from the neck of a butternut squash, peeled and baked with olive oil until tender. I also took the rest of the oyster mushrooms and caramelized them with garlic, then finished with tosa soy sauce, red wine, and more demi-glace. I also deglazed the steak pan with the same combination, plus a pat of butter to make a little sauce. The creamy purée, tender squash, and buttery meat all melded seamlessly with the mushrooms and sauce into a lusciously elegant yet still-homey meal.

7 comments to The Ice Storm

  • We Are Never Full

    damn…i’m so craving beef tonight and jonny wants to do it in a stew. not DO IT in a stew…you know what i mean. anyways, i’m going to bring the laptop over to him and hope he changes his mind about tonights dinner.

    i want an ice storm! but you know the aftermath of storms in nyc – it’s nasty. but it’s pretty when it’s fresh.

  • Jen of A2eatwrite

    This looks scrumptious. D and his family are up in that ice storm right now, sorting out what to do… sigh. They’re up in the Rexford/Schenectady area.

  • The Spiteful Chef

    I tried to leave you a comment that was well thought out and such, but my computer deleted it. Here was the gist:
    1-Food looks good
    2-How do you sous vide? What’s your setup?

  • Zen Chef

    This is a nice cut of meat. Your butcher must like you, they usually keep it for themselves. You’re really good at that sous-vide thing. Look at that nice pink.

  • Heather

    The meat guys at New Seasons would hook me up, I bet, if I could get there during the day and not during Zomg Dinner Rush Hour. I really should get their names.

  • Brittany

    I need you to come over to my house and plate my food for me. While you’re here, you can cook it too. I’ll just say that I made it.

    Fair enough?

    Miso soup for breakfast? You crazy New Yorkers…

  • peter

    Amy: Did you win him over? My wife hates the beef stew too.

    Jen: They got clobbered up there. I hope all were well.

    Kristie: I bought a used scientific bath on ebay, and I have a foodsaver.
    Email me if you want more details.

    M. Zen: He does like me (I bring him gifts.) But good at sous-vide? It’s pushing a button!

    Blanche: I’m sure you could get more than their names.

    Brittany: Will there be pie?

    And miso soup is SOP for brekkie in Japan.

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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