We were in Vermont for the long weekend, and I’ll get that post together soon. In the meantime, a dinner Milo and I had last week that was remarkable only for the incredible tomatoes we used throughout. To start, two kinds of heirlooms dressed only with Maldon salt and good olive oil. Perfection.
Then, penne tossed with sautéed guanciale (just because it’s not dry yet doesn’t mean I can’t start using it) plus a highlight reel of the late-summer garden: plum tomatoes, chard, fennel, onion, garlic, and five different herbs. It takes the very simplest of starchitecture to let these gorgeous ingredients show off their surpassing sweetness and complex depth of flavor. Lacking rosé, I popped a 1998 Gros Noré Bandol, which at ten years is just terrific- if a little heavy for this kind of food- and made all the better for the fact that I paid around 16 bucks for these when I bought them back in 2002.