Partying Like It’s Millenovecentonovantanove

John came over on his one free night before the touring begins again; it’s always a treat to have some real time with him since he’s so busy and we usually get together in bigger groups for dinner parties. I didn’t have a lot of time to put together anything fancy, but this time of year the ingredients are so great that they really just need to be arranged on a plate. We began with a corn soup I whipped out- simmered kernels with onion, puréed, strained, added butter, seasoned, garnished with serrano, truffle oil, pepper, and chive. It was an excellent match with the 1992 Fiorano semillon that John brought; another wonderful part of having him over solo means that we can break out the very best wine and enjoy multiple glasses of it. Read the piece about it- it’s a great story, and having tasted it, it seems even more appropriate that the new Ferrari is also named Fiorano- it was a fascinating, complex creature, and more than lived up to its fairy-tale reputation.

As the white evolved, I made another course to show it in a different light. Crisp lardons of our bacon- amazingly, there’s a little left- served with kimchi warmed in a little bacon fat and topped with a quail egg gently fried in still more of the bacon fat. Simple, but rich and deep, and it tied bacon and eggs to pork and cabbage pretty handily. With this course, the wine tasted less like sherry and more like a sort of dry burgundian dessert wine, if that makes any sense.

For the main course, it was simple Summer picnic food all the way. Chicken legs grilled with a simple spice rub, penne with basil-sorrel-nasturtium pesto, two kinds of heirloom tomatoes with salt and oil, wilted chard, sautéed zucchini, local black trumpet mushrooms with garlic and calvados, and tomatillo salsa. There are so few weeks when the heat of the sun comes back to you through the food on your plate, and we are in the thick of that time right now. Corn, pesto, and tomatoes especially are so beautiful and this meal let them all do what they do best.

For the wines, we started with a 1999 Solaia, which is dense, rich, and gorgeous- tasting the way a Cali cab wishes it could be, with all the structure, leather, and spice, but none of the cloying sweet fruit- everything is so seamless and integrated. Next up, a 1999 Giusto di Notri, which did all the same things but with a completely different personality. The two together made for an excellent mini-study of Super-Tuscans from that year. For desert, John brought a 1999 Fèlsina vin santo, and we paired it with a Roquefort. Pure beauty, and another astonishing glimpse of Tuscany nine years ago.

11 comments to Partying Like It’s Millenovecentonovantanove

  • Jen of A2eatwrite

    Great blog, Peter! I’m so glad you stopped by mine, so I was able to find yours.

    Your combinations remind me a bit of Heather at Gild the Voodoolily – do you know her blog?

  • cook eat FRET

    so like, who’s john?

  • peter

    Jen: Hi there. Thanks for visiting. I like your blog too.

    Claudia: See added link.

  • Jack at Fork and Bottle

    Hope you drank the Fiorano slowly, as it evolves into such an interesting, great wine.

  • peter

    Jack: We did; we sipped and savored and let it unfold. I want more.

  • Zen Chef

    So your guest was John as in John Medeski, Martin & Wood? How cool is that! What comes to mind is 'end of the world party' and 'mami gato'. Really nice stuff. And it's on my Ipod too!

    I love the food and the wine pairings. Sounds like a nice and relaxed meal. Nice job and nice to 'meet' you!

  • genevelyn

    Peter
    did you make the plate that lil’ fried egg is on?

  • peter

    Zen: Welcome. Those guys are like family to us; we just had dinner with the Woods last night.

    Genevelyn: Hiya, stranger. Yes, I made those plates. How has your summer been?

  • Heather

    Wow, looks like someone got popular all of a sudden! Well deserved.

    You’re friends with M of MMW. Crazy.

  • peter

    Heather: We’re friends with the whole crew; they really are like family. We moved up here in part because of them. Tomorrow I’m going to bring them snacks in the studio during a break from recording the new record.

  • Hunter Angler Gardener Cook

    Kimchi-bacon-egg? Sign me up. Sounds like beer food though, not wine food. Although I bet Lambrusco would go well with it…

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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