Matchy Matchy

Often color is my jumping-off point for figuring out what to make for dinner; it’s my training, and a big part of what I do professionally. So Christine’s purchase of some sole combined with the braised cabbage already in the fridge (and the desire to try a variation on the cornmeal crust from last week) all led to this. Parsnips are incredibly sweet right now- one of the blessings of winter- so I steamed a few and mashed them silly with a dribble of cream and some white truffle “cream” (really a purée with olive oil and other mushrooms, but delicious.) The result was a dish harmonious to both eye and mouth. Even more harmonious, including some pretty funky overtones, was a 1978 Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos Prieur” that seemed a little tired (it might be the last of those bargain Burgs from the summer) but over time developed that astonishing darker fruit nose and layer upon layer of subtle, elegant perfumes- some very faint- that once again show what wine meant for aging does with some age. It was well worth the cooked bottles to have some that were this good.

2 comments to Matchy Matchy

  • cookiecrumb

    That’s great! Plate as canvas. We all do that to some extent, but having you explain your approach gives me insight into your personal vision, both in kitchen and in atelier.

    Also, matchy matchy! :D

  • peter

    It’s just kind of how my brain works (when it works.) And food has such pretty colors.

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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