The Vegetable Orchestra.
Year: 2007
I normally never buy the skinless, boneless chicken pieces, since the fat and bones are essential for flavor and stock-making, but it’s what they had at the place I went shopping. At least they had thighs. I marinated them all day in lemon and tangerine juice with garlic, ginger, cardamom, yuzu kosho, and rosemary, then threw them in the wok, followed by pak choi and some of the marinade thickened with flour. Served on brown…
Last year, we got a pass on December; it was so warm that the daffodils came up and we raked up the willow leaves just before Christmas. This time around, not so much. Snow, sleet, wind, and freakin’ frigid. So tonight, ironically, the freezer yielded the bulk of our dinner. Sweet potato gnocchi dough left from Thanksgiving, mirepoix, and kale were the bulk of it, supplemented by request with cranberry sauce- slightly undersweetened, with cider,…
Last night I made mushroom risotto (a chicken carcass needed brothing) with shiitakes and dried porcini. Today I rolled it in nori, and the chick pea curry (warmed) in tortillas with pickled serranos. Pickled beets on the side. Yum. The pickled things are really doing it for me right now, and I love dispatching leftovers efficiently.
Have you ever wondered why your homemade Indian food never quite achieves the rich, satisfying depth that even the cheapest restaurant delivers all the time? There are two reasons. The first is that if they’re any good, they grind their own spices fresh every day. The second is butter. Clarified, yes, but butter. And cream. In copious quantities. I discovered this shocking- SHOCKING- fact the other night when I absently glugged the last of some…
I just learned that the OED‘s word of the year has been announced, and it’s Locavore. Hooray. If recent history has taught us anything, controlling the terminology is a prerequisite for leading and winning the debate.
I am so very, very lucky to be able to head down to the city on short notice and have dinner at Kris & Ken’s house; they always have the best food, wine, and company possible and thus my gustatory horizons never fail to be widened. Wednesday night was no different. Herewith the summary: Aperitif: 2005 Wegeler riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Sea bass with daikon sprouts and olive-olive oil sauce 1997 Jose Michel Brut Champagne Salad…
It’s like Thanksgiving leftovers, but nothing on the plate is actually from that meal except the cranberry-wine reduction. The rest of it is a duck breast, seared in a pan, along with zucchini “latkes” and brown rice with kale cooked in the rendered fat (this is actually a zucchini picked AGES ago- before the first frost- and stored in the bottom of the fridge; I’ve slowly been using it up.) Meat juices and some of…
The numbers: 8 adults, 11 courses, 7 bottles, 6 hours. The pictures: Duck and pear: Melons are long since out of season, so these are local organic red bartlett pears. This duck took about three months to cure, but was SOOOO worth the wait. Leek & Gruyère tart: A dribble of truffle oil and grating of Indonesian long pepper on top put this one into orbit. Celery root-leek-potato soup: Local milk, veggies from the garden,…