Riffing

Another variation on Ma Po tofu tonight, using a bit of the pâté mixture I made yesterday in place of ground pork and carrots as well as peas. The pâté has a lot of flavor, but I still added rice vinegar, lime juice, nama shoyu, wine, and sesame oil to round it out. After it was done, the green outer leaves of a head of pan di zucchero, braised with their own residual washing water, garlic, lime juice, and sesame oil left the wok clean & shiny so dishes were a snap. We tried a 1999 François Parent Chambolle-Musigny that was better than his Vosne-Romanée we had a few nights back- ironically, given that this one is cheaper. The nose is good, but it’s sour and thin in the mouth. Whether more time will improve it is hard to say; it will never be epic, but if the tartness gives way to the soft fruit and truffles hinted at in the nose it will be well worth the 20+ bucks.

2 comments to Riffing

  • Moonbear

    I once had a friend make a chili soup for me here at my house, and it left the pot Shining Clean. The soup, however, was inedible. Way too hot.
    And oh, I tried the shiso infusion. I guess you could say it’s just not my cup o’ vodka…

  • peter barrett

    Shiso has a strong and particular taste. A little goes a long way, and sometimes I can’t stand it at all. It’s best in zucchini soup with lots of garlic, I think.

    Chili soup sounds like a hot bowl of salsa.

Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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