Solo act

With the family out of town, and not having eaten meat in days, I took some pork ribs and after browning them added carrot, celery root, onion, fingerling potatoes, wine, herbs, and a few kumquats. Turned down low and covered, it cooked for about an hour. Once the meat was done, I added some ume and balsamic vinegar, plus the alder smoked salt and parsley. Pulled the meat out and threw in a bit of broccoli and let the juice reduce.

Served with a shake of sesame seeds on top, with a 1997 Perrot-Minot Morey-St-Denis “En la rue de Vergy” which started off a bit sour but opened up over time; initially the celery root went well with the more metallic flavors, but eventually the citrus and fat kind of meshed with the deepened fruit of the wine. Not a perfect match, since the wine is a bit thin and the food a tad rich for it, but each revealed something about the other which is all one can ask from a simple dinner.

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Yours Truly



I'm a painter who happens to also spend a lot of time growing, making, and writing about food. I'm particularly interested in the intersection of frugal peasant cooking techniques and haute improvisation. And I have a really great personality.

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